Science: How to Buy the Best Parmesan Cheese

Byamazingfoodstv


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In the test kitchen we go through a LOT of Parmesan cheese. And our taste tests show us time and again that real Parmigiano-Reggiano, while more expensive than imitations, is worth every penny. Because we go through so much, we often buy huge quarter wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano and break them down ourselves into smaller wedges. While doing so we’ve often noticed that the cheese towards the rind is crumblier than that in the center. And some of our test cooks swear that the exterior cheese has better flavor and boasts more of those pleasant crunchy crystals. But is that possible? Is there really a big difference between the exterior and interior? And should that inform which part you buy? We set up an experiment to answer all of these questions.

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We first set up a blind tasting of samples of cheese taken from 3 locations on one wheel of 18-month-old Parmigiano-Reggiano. We took the samples from the very center of the wheel, from a location 1 inch in from the side and bottom rind, and a third location right between these two points. In a blind tasting, we asked tasters to describe the texture and flavor of each sample and rank them based on overall preference. Next, we took additional samples from the center and edge locations, shaved them into thin strips, and manually counted the number of crystals in each.

The result? Tasters were clear about their preferences. The sample taken closest to the rind ranked first. It was “nutty”, “complex”, and “pleasantly crumbly”. The sample taken from the very center of the wheel ranked at the bottom. Tasters found it “mild”, with a “smoother”, “plasticky” texture. The sample taken in between these 2 points scored 2nd place and was described as “middle-of-the-road” in terms of both flavor and texture. What about those crystals? Well they form as the cheese ages and dries out and the insoluble amino acid tyrosine aggregates into clumps. The cheese right next to the rind averaged 20 crystals per 10 grams of cheese while the center cheese averaged less than 9 crystals per 10 grams.

What accounts for this? When cheese ages it undergoes a complex process called proteolysis which changes its texture, melting qualities, and flavor. Our tests suggest that cheese changes over time in the same way that a roast heats up in the oven—from the outside in. Dean Sommers, cheese technologist at the University of Wisconsin-Madison agrees. According to Sommers, the outer portions of wheel of real Parmesan cheese will show the telltale signs of advanced aging—a dry, crumbly texture, a high proportion of tyrosine crystals, and a deep, complex flavor.

Moving forward we’ll definitely be seeking out corner pieces of Parmigiano-Reggiano at the supermarket. Not only will we get the authenticity guarantee of the stamp on the rind, we’ll also be buying the best part of the wheel.

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50 Comments

  4. The best ever parmesan …. hands down is the Egyptian version….. it's oily… it's soft…loads of variant taste and usage…it has the best texture…and try the one with peppers… absolutely nothing like it on earth….

    Italian parmesan is crap and waste of money 🤑….just like eating 🧼 soap bars….

    They should use italian parmesan in the shower 🚿 not in the kitchen…

  5. Don't buy Parmesan. Buy Parmigiano Reggiano. The milk cultures are different due to the grass and the cows. It comes fro. Parma , Italy. The parmigiano has a better flavor in comparison the American parmesan cheese. Definitely not the same.

  6. I see so much discussion about how people should change their behavior based on this info… but what they're not mentioning here is the actual magnitude of the difference. Spots 1 vs 3 are probably 10x closer than 3 vs pre-grated (anti-caking agents, oxidization etc), and 100x closer than 3 vs unrefrigerated shelf-stable

    Just buy real parmigiano-reggiano, if that's all you do and never worry about center vs rind, you'll be fine. If you want to tend towards using rind-side cheese as a topping and center-side cheese for cooking (it melts easier to boot), then go ahead, but I can almost guarantee you won't notice a difference in enjoyment of the dish.

  14. The cheese near the rind is hard and waxy. I store rinds in the freezer for soups and strews, in which I'll toss in rind or two (like whole spices, remove before serving or eat around it). However, I have more rinds than I can use, since I don't make that many sauces or stews. Perhaps I should use more rinds at once. But since I have an abundance of rinds, I prefer cheese pieces with less rind. I can't tell the difference in taste, perhaps because I buy Parmeggiano-Reggiano of various ages, but I do strongly prefer the soft texture of cheese further from the rind. And the waxy hard cheese near the rind has inferior texture and flavor. I do the opposite of what this video advises, and will continue to do so.

  18. I'm a big fan of non-authentic parmesan. The brand at Sam's is great. It is less sour, melts and tastes better. I suppose it is more like the center of reggiano.

    I also like Bud Light more than Guinness and Lincoln more than BMW.

  24. Maybe I just have a childish pallete, but I prefer the center areas. It's easier to bite into, and for me the very edge tends to not melt as easily and tends to so hard/tough it's like chewing leather. >.<*
    Like, going by their roast analogy, I like my meat rare! >:3

  30. Thank you for the video. I often get confused while purchasing from the online stores available in USA. But with harvestorder that confusion is long gone. Now I get fresh and variety of cheese from them and know where and which cheese to choose.

  37. Interesting. But more important than this is the fact that Parmigiano Reggiano is not equal Parmigiano Reggiano. Just like Beef is not equal to Beef or Wine etc You have to still buy the right one.
    I can buy Parmesan from a supermarket. And I can buy Parmesan from a farmer. Guess which one is better. The inside of such a cheese is still way better than the outside of a mass produced PR.

  38. It ought to be noted that similar properties are found closer to the rind of other cheeses shaped in wheels as well for the same reasons; I remember since being a kid that I always found the edges of gruyere and graviera (basically the Greek adaptation of the original cheese) being way more deeply-flavoured than the core of the wheel.

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