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THE SHOWDOWN: DUTCHED VERSUS NATURAL
Dutching is not a one-size-fits-all process. We learned that manufacturers use a variety of different alkalizing agents, such as potassium carbonate or sodium carbonate. They can also adjust the temperature and time of the process, and opt to alkalize the nibs, cocoa liquor, or the final pressed powder.

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An independent laboratory measured the pH of each brand we tested, finding that the natural powders ranged from 5.36 to 5.73 in pH and the dutched powders between 6.88 and 7.90. In other words, the most acidic natural cocoa powder in our lineup was about 300 times more acidic than the least acidic dutched cocoa powder. The variation within the styles was also significant, especially among the dutched powders. For those products, the difference in acidity was about 10-fold.

When we reviewed the results of our recipe tests, we saw that some trends fell in line with the dutched-natural division. The more acidic natural powders had produced some of the tallest, airiest, and crumbliest cookies and cakes. On the other hand, most of the dutched powders produced baked goods that hadn’t risen quite as tall. This makes sense: Baking soda, a common chemical leavener that was in all three of the recipes we tested, releases carbon dioxide bubbles when it reacts with acid and moisture; this is one of the reasons that doughs and batters rise in the oven. The acidity level affected how our cocoa powders interacted with the baking soda, and probably played a role in how high our baked goods rose.

Leavening agents such as baking soda react with acid and moisture to create carbon dioxide, which causes baked goods to rise and creates a dryer, airy texture. The dutching process neutralizes some of the cocoa’s acidity for less lift and a fudgier consistency.

In general, the tall, airy cakes and cookies made with natural cocoa powder were perceived as much drier. Our tasters preferred the fudgier, moist desserts made with less acidic dutched powders. In fact, a dutch-processed cocoa powder won every tasting—even when used in a recipe that was specifically designed with natural cocoa powder—and dutched products took the three top spots overall. But one dutched powder consistently landed at the bottom of the rankings; baked goods made with it were slightly dry instead of tender and rich. Dutching is clearly an important variable, but it wasn’t the whole story.

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